Mont Blanc Summit Day 3

MONT BLANC AUGUST 2009 DAY 3

After a terrible nights sleep; a combination of my headache and Rogers snoring, we woke early and kitted up ready for a second day on the glacier.

The challenge for the day was a traverse of the Aiguilee d’Entreves.  This was to start with crossing the Glacier du Geant and then a climb onto the granite itself. The classic traverse is south to north along the spine with France down to your left and a sheer drop to Italy on the right. Route information can be found here http://www.summitpost.org/route/166202/southwest-ridge.html

a great traverse

a great traverse

With crampons fixed we began the climb and this was going to be a good test for Roger and Houghty who were due to attempt the Matterhorn if our Mont Blanc summit was a success, so getting some technical climbing practise was going to be crucial.

Starting the traverse

With the three of us roped together with Paolo leading and shouting back instruction to throw rope loops over rocks to secure each other between pitches, we probably looked a motley crew.

It was a great climb cum scramble and one of the best days i’ve had on the mountain. The view from our sheltered lunch stop was truly breathtaking and despite having considerable pain from slicing my finger on my penknife the previous day, the climb was comfortable and not overly challenging.

Great climbing

We descent was great fun, picking our way through the granite slabs that have peeled off from the main spire and trying to avoid looking down to the right where a long drop would have greeted any slip.

On the spine..italy way down to the right!

At the end of the climb we crossed the glacier to head to the Cosmique hut from where, early the following morning, we would be starting our summit attempt.

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